Argentina | A Day in La Boca

Though certainly less shiny than some parts of Buenos Aires, it is in rambling La Boca’s trodden streets that one can see flakes of a glorious past. Once upon a time, this was a lively place of many colors. After exploring much of the area on foot, we made an obligatory stop at the La Boca stadium itself, which, like the neighborhood, has seen better days. It seemed to me a... Read More

Argentina | Ushuaia: Welcome to the World’s End

It was a beautiful flight here, but the arrival was less than stellar – a steady drizzle of cold, sharp rain made walking around town unpleasant, and prices made desirable accommodation most difficult to find. Luckily, we have found an absolute winner: Torre Al Sur. Though it’s a bit further from the commercial center of town, we both love the hostel’s atmosphere, complete... Read More

Chile | Torres Del Paine – Yet Another Border Crossing

El Calafate is a great place to explore all kinds of sights, from Perito Moreno to the icy plains of Patagonia. It’s also an “easy” hopping off point to the nearby Torres del Paine, though this requires a border crossing with Chile. Given the fame of Torres del Paine’s beauty and pinnacles, it seemed a necessary trip. The easiest method of getting to the park is by signing... Read More

Argentina | Exploring the otherworldly of the world: Perito Moreno!

We’re finally here: deep Patagonia. After two looooong days on a bus, we emerged into the crisp, chilly air of El Calafate with some intensive zeal. I’m not entirely sure why we are this crazy, but we have decided to camp in this freakishly cold and windy place. Luckily, our site offers warm showers and a scrumptious parrilla, so I can’t complain too much, other than briefly... Read More

Chile | Popping by Puerto Varas

One of the unfortunate realities of travel is that nobody has infinite time. In hastening to get to our planned destination, we were unable to stay very long in our stopover of Puerto Varas, a charming German town set quietly on the shore of Lago Llanguihue. Upon discovering this little gem of a place, we were saddened at our impending departure – I think this would be quite... Read More

Chile | Pucón – Hot Springs and Volcanoes

We arrived in Pucón in utter awe of Volcan Villarrica, an enormous, snow-capped beast of a volcano smoldering in the very near distance. We have decided to finally put the tent to good use and camp, and one visit to the tourist information center guided us to a good spot in town, close to the lake and on a river known as La Poza. Being shady and grassy, it fits the bill. The small... Read More

Chile | Vertical City: Valaparaiso’s Cerro Conceptión

Valparaiso has a rare aesthetic, the kind where jumbled architecture leaves the city labyrinthine and poetic. It’s kind of a strange meeting of traffic and pedestrians, beaches and freight. As we are staying nestled next to the lovely Cerro Conceptión, we took one of the infamous funiculars, of which there are still over a dozen (down from the remarkable number of 33!) to explore... Read More

Chile | Santiago Treat: The Most Pleasant of Neighborhoods

For the most part, Santiago is no tourist retreat. It’s certainly much more of a metropolis here, with busy-looking people in busy-looking suits and a sometimes-uncomfortable bustle. Though I had often read that Santiago is “not a destination in itself,” I was convinced that, like Milan, you just have to dig under the surface a bit. This is how I fell upon the trendy neighborhood known... Read More

Argentina | Mendoza Tidbit: Esencias de la Tierra

Mendoza proper, the capital of the province, is not exactly what I expected, and I don’t necessarily have lots to gush about. Don’t get me wrong, there’s plenty to do in the area. Here, you’ll find: the biggest park ever (four-square-kilometer General San Martin Park), pleasant, leafy streets, some beautiful house watching, and ample outdoor activities, especially with the... Read More

Argentina | 5 Reasons to Visit Cafayate, Argentina’s Quiet Escape

When I first read about Argentina’s wine country in National Geographic’s 50 Places of a Lifetime, I was transfixed. It just looked so… relaxing. So, after our accidental arrival and subsequent stay in northern Argentina, we decided to start exploring the grape-covered landscape. An uneventful bus ride resulted in our very prompt arrival in Cafayate, a town which... Read More