Thailand | Loving Nam Hoo

I slept poorly, as Margaux and I had found a giant cockroach in our bed and were unsure if we succeeded in throwing it out of the window, so it haunted my dreams. We were very nearly late to the morning stretch, as it seems there is never enough time for coffee and bread (four Wonderbread-like slices on a plate each morning, which make us giggle – a bizarre interpretation of American culture). Also the healing (the rubbing of scalding shrubbery on my wrist) takes a bit. It’s a long process, further lengthened by the impossible cleaning of my ever-sticky spoon.

Margaux and I were leaders today, so we divided the group and miraculously conquered the trail by 11.30am. Our Patis carved cups for us out of bamboo, then we retired to the village. I attempted to see the rai, but was distracted by Erin and Katia, who were relaxing on the porch, eating dee and simosa (a grapefruit-esque fruit). Their Muga is nearly younger than Katia (20!) and has the cutest 2-year-old son who is remarkably tough and waddles around with a machete. She is a fabulous weaver, and I bought several scarves from her. We had a group meeting, followed by a make-shift weaving sale, then the village meeting, where we listened to speeches, exchanged songs, and had a lovely time. The villagers thanked us for buying their weaving and stressed that they would spend the earnings on rice. They were very glad, they said, that their children would not have to toil in the rai so. It may be rather hard to leave Nam Hoo.

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